Welcome to the night bus where sleep is not guaranteed

One of the major differences that I have noticed between Japan and the United States (where I live) is the access to transportation. There is an abundance of transportation options throughout Japan such as trains (sleeper trains, bullet trains, and local trains), ferries (normally to Korea), planes and buses. Prices and lengths of time vary depending on which option you take. Recently a group of my friends and I decided that we would go to Korea and that taking the night bus would be the cheapest way to get to Fukuoka (where we would catch a ferry to Korea). The night bus was appealing because it was reasonably priced and would only take about 9 hours during the night. Thinking that I could sleep for those 9 hours, I agreed. However what I experienced was not at all what I had expected.

We arrived at the bus terminal about an hour before our bus was set to leave. Our first problem occurred here. None of us spoke incredible amounts of Japanese so it took about 45 minutes to figure out where to go to check in. When we finally found the bus and got boarded on, I was excited. This would be my first time on the night bus. I was exhausted from classes that day and thus thought that, sitting in the back of the bus with enough room to stretch my legs out, I would be able to get to sleep relatively fast. Sleep never happened. I spent 9 hours on a dark bus wide awake.

Another thing that struck me as odd: there was no bathroom. I was slightly afraid of what that meant...would I have to hold it for 9 hours?! The friends I was traveling with (experienced night bus users) reassured me that I wouldn’t have to worry about it, because the bus would stop to let passengers go to the bathroom or stretch their legs every two or three hours . In all it was not a terrible experience but I will definitely not take the night bus in the near future.

Ink Splatters

There’s no limit to taboo issues in Japan; more than can be covered in a semester long blog. One of the most widely known by outside viewers would be the existence of the Yakuza (a mafia like group). Typically the Japanese differentiate Yakuza members from “normal” citizens by the clothes they wear (fitted suits, shiny pointed shoes), missing pinky knuckles, and tattoos. An article at TruTV says the following about Yakuza tattoos:

"Yakuza members also favor tattoos, but theirs are elaborate body murals that often cover the entire torso, front and back, as well the arms to below the elbow and the legs to mid-calf. Naked, a fully tattooed yakuza looks like he's wearing long underwear. Dragons, flowers, mountainous landscapes, turbulent seascapes, gang insignias and abstract designs are typical images used for yakuza body art. The application of these extensive tattoos is painful and can take hundreds of hours, but the process is considered a test of a man's mettle."

Tattoo Artist at work: Nattsu

I myself have two tattoos of my own and have been given terrified looks and in a couple of instances people have refused to sit next to me on the train when they catch a glimpse of them. Some hot springs refuse entrance to those who have tattoos and people seem genuinely scared of them.

Female tattoo artist: Nattsu

But tattoos aren’t limited to just burly Yakuza men. Women throughout Japan have been showing more interest in tattoos recently. According to an article in the Japan Times, women may be leading the way in dissolving the harsh image that tattoos have in Japan. For instance, the older generation may find it hard to believe that tattoos can be ‘cute,’ but for many women that is the very image they hold. Nattsu (mentioned in the article), an Osaka based tattoo artist is one of these women. I had the opportunity to meet Nattsu when a friend of mine decided to get a tattoo from her, and looking through her portfolio I saw brightly colored flowers and cats as well as Manga styled images. She was also one of the nicest people that I have met here in Japan; nothing at all like the gruff, rude, or scary image of a Yakuza man.

Cutesy tattoo design done by Nattsu

Nattsu, my friend, and the receptionist (all women and all heavily tattooed)

Nattsu herself is covered in tattoos ranging from an eyeball on her right arm to a cutesy animal with a bow atop its head on her chest. She was diligent in working and very proud of the things she has created. Though she has a steady job tattooing others, another tattoo artist said in the Japan Times article:

"I foresee a generation of elaborately tattooed homeless in the future," says Hata from Koenji's Inkrat studio, only half jokingly. "It's hard to get bank loans and rental contracts with visible tattoos. Things haven't changed much."

Hopefully in the near future Japan’s perception on tattoos will change so that those with tattoos don’t have such a hard time.